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Beyond Sun, Sand, and Sea: Busan’s Overlooked History

Written by igobart

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When people think of Busan, beaches usually come first. And fair enough—they’re perfect. But that also means most itineraries stick to the coastline. Head inland though, and Busan hides historical surprises that break the sun-sand-sea routine. Join me in Dongnae District, where I’ll zoom in on four sites that deserve a spot on any Busan itinerary.

Dongnae Eupseong Fortress: A Final Stand

The world remembers Hastings, Waterloo, Normandy, and Stalingrad. Busan remembers the Battle of Dongnae Eupseong. This fortress was the stage for one of Korea’s fiercest fights during the Imjin Wars.

In 1592, 4,000 Korean defenders under Magistrate Song Sang-hyeon faced nearly 20,000 Japanese soldiers. Refusing to surrender, Song and his men held out against impossible odds until the fortress fell. Song himself was killed in battle, leaving behind the words he’s remembered for: “It is easier to die in battle than to surrender.”
Today, you can walk the fortress walls in peace and imagine their final stand.

We entered through the northern gate, where a forest trail hugs the old wall under the shade of pines. The breeze was a welcome relief from Busan’s lingering September heat. The path climbs to Bukjangdae Pavilion, the highest point of the fortress, with sweeping views of the city. Standing there, it wasn’t hard to picture Japanese soldiers storming these walls centuries ago.

On the way back, we stopped at the small history hall, where a giant miniature of the fortress reveals just how vast it once was. After a slightly embarrassing attempt at Tuho—an old Korean throwing game you can play outside of the hall—we decided it was time for a cooling retreat.

Dongnae Eupseong Fortress

Address : San 48-2, Myeongnyun-dong, Dongnae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea
Transportation : About a 24-minute walk from Myeongnyun Station (Busan Metro Line 1, exit 2); or take village bus 183 or Dongnae-gu 7 to Dongnae Cultural Center stop, then walk ~9 minutes.
Hours : Open Tuesday-Sunday, from 09:00 to 18:00; closed on Mondays.

Bokcheon Museum and Ancient Gaya Tombs

Right by the fortress gate sits a museum that caught me completely off guard. I expected fortress relics, but instead I found gold crowns, iron armor, and pottery unearthed from the tombs of the ancient Gaya people.

Gaya was a confederation of small kingdoms—masters of iron tools and weapons—and one of the great underdogs of Korean history. The exhibitions, with clear English explanations, do a great job telling their story. Some of the jewelry they created was so stunning and timeless that it could have been worn today, and no one would have guessed its antiquity. I was impressed!

But the real thrill is outside. In front of the museum, green hills dotted with square-shaped bushes hide the very tombs where some of these treasures were found. During the Korean War, refugee migration to Busan led to homes being built directly on top of them. Only during redevelopment were the tombs uncovered. The walk along the tombs gave a magnificent panoramic view over the Dongnae District.

Bokcheon Museum

Address : 63, Bokcheon-ro, Dongnae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea
Transportation : By Metro: Walk about 18 minutes from Exit 5 of Suan Station (Busan Metro Line 4) to the museum.
By Bus: Take village bus Dongnae-gu No. 6, get off at the Bokcheon Museum stop.
From Dongnae Station (Line 1), walk or switch to bus No. 6, as the museum is in the same general area.
Hours : Open Tuesday–Sunday, from 09:00 to 18:00 (last admission at 17:00). Closed on Mondays and January 1.
Admission : Free
Website : https://museum.busan.go.kr/bokcheon/index

Chungnyeolsa Shrine: Heroes Remembered

Shrines don’t usually make the top of Busan’s travel lists, but Chungnyeolsa deserves an exception. About a 25-minute walk from the fortress, it honors those who died resisting the Japanese during the Imjin War.

We took the western path to the main hall, which felt almost botanical, dozens of unique trees swaying in the wind, locals resting in the shade. Honestly, I was intrigued by all the different trees. Halfway up, the path split in two: one shortcut to the hall, the other a so-called “foot massage path.” I bravely chose the latter, and instantly regretted it as my feet protested with every sharp stone. Healing turned into torture, but at least I earned my way to the shrine.

At the main hall, the view over the city was striking, but what moved me most was watching locals pause to bow in respect. After visiting the fortress, the weight of those lost lives felt heavier here.

I even came across a smaller shrine dedicated to women fighters, which is a rare sight. It reminded me of a painting I saw earlier at the fortress, depicting two women hurling roof tiles at Japanese soldiers during the battle. I immediately noticed them on the roof in the painting, which quickly became my favorite Korean battle scene. Standing in front of their shrine made that image feel suddenly real.

Inside the memorial hall, large painted depictions of the battle line the walls. Commissioned in the 1980s, they’re romanticized but still powerful. A kind local guide explained (in English) that the actual battle lasted only a few hours, given how outnumbered the Koreans were—pointing out that these paintings aren’t the most realistic portrayals. I was still impressed, though.

I would have kicked myself if I had skipped this stop. Chungnyeolsa won my heart; it felt like the perfect finishing touch to the story of Eupseong Fortress… or so I thought.

Chungnyeolsa Shrine

Address : 347, Chungnyeol-daero, Dongnae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea
Transportation : Accessible via Chungnyeolsa Station on Metro Line 4
Hours : April through September: 09:00–21:00; October through March: 09:00–20:00; Main hall/souvenir shop: 09:00–18:00 year-round
Admission : Free
Website : http://www.busan.go.kr/cys/index

History Beneath the Subway & Dongnae Train Station (1934)

By now, I thought I had connected all the dots, until the guide pointed me to Suan Subway Station. I was on my way somewhere else, but we changed course and took a quick look.

During its construction, workers uncovered part of Eupseong’s hidden moat, filled with bones and swords from the battle. Construction couldn’t be halted, so tiles now mark the moat’s exact line inside the station. I always love finding historical easter eggs like that. Replicas of the discoveries are also displayed underground, a surreal reminder of what lies beneath the feet of everyday commuters.

After the quick Suan distraction and before leaving the area, we stopped at a photo spot just a stone’s throw away: the old Dongnae Train Station. First opened in 1934, you’d never guess it from looking at it today. The building has been renovated so thoroughly that it feels almost new, more like a set piece than a relic. Still, it’s one of the few surviving colonial-era stations in Busan, and locals have embraced it as a heritage site and casual photo stop. Step inside to see a small display on Busan’s railway past and get a glimpse of the city’s early days of modern transport.

Now, with more than 20,000 steps on the counter, a sunburned neck, and Busan’s history weighing on my mind, I finally admitted: maybe the beach didn’t sound so bad after all.

Dongnae Train Station (1934)

Address : 28, Nangmin-ro, Dongnae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea
Transportation : About a 4-minute walk from Nakmin Station (Busan Metro Line 4)
Hours : Open Tuesday–Saturday, from 10:00 to 16:00. Closed on Mondays and Sunday

Overview

Address
Dongnae Eupseong Fortress: San 48-2, Myeongnyun-dong, Dongnae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea
Bokcheon Museum: 63, Bokcheon-ro, Dongnae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea
Chungnyeolsa Shrine: 347, Chungnyeol-daero, Dongnae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea
Dongnae Train Station (1934): 28, Nangmin-ro, Dongnae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea
Website
Bokcheon Museum: museum.busan.go.kr/bokcheon
Chungnyeolsa Shrine: http://www.busan.go.kr/cys/index